This 12C priory is one of the best preserved of the 160 Grandmontine monasteries, a religious order, founded by Étienne of Thiers (1046 – 1124, son of Viscount of Thiers from the Auvergne).

When he was 12, Etienne was taken by his father to Italy, where he studied under Milo, (who would later to become Archbishop of Benevente). Here the young Etienne met with the Calabrian monks who practised Byzantine rites, and thus discovered his vocation.

Upon his return to France in 1076, Etienne searched for somewhere to practise the Gospel in prayer, and solitude. He chose an isolated location in the forest of Muret (near to Limoges). A hut dwelling community of hermits began to gather around him, and they soon built a church, and living quarters as their numbers grew.

His death prompted the movement of his flock to the Grandmont plateau, near Limoges, where they built the Abbey of Grandmont. This became the hub to more than 160 smaller monasteries, inhabited by more than 1500 hermits, of which, the Priory of St Michel de Grandmont at Lodeve was one.

By 1772 the Grandmontaine Order had dwindled in popularity, and was eventually dissolved, and the Priory was absorbed into the Diocese of Lodeve. Two monks remained in the Priory until their deaths in 1785.

It was known to be one of the strictest, and austere orders of the middle ages. There was no hierarchy, with no archives, and no heating. The monks walked with bare feet, in perpetual silence. They ate no meat, and fasted regularly. As they worked, they engaged in silent prayer. Theirs was the first order to be permitted to beg for food.

After the French revolution, the priory passed into the hands of a local merchant family, who developed it as a home, and agricultural estate.

From 1849 to 1936 it was owned by the VITALIS family, who were cloth manufacturers. Etienne VITALIS restored the buildings, making them fit for habitation, and wine production.

In 1957 it was bought by the BEC family, who owned a local engineering firm. In 1980 the Priory was classed as an historic monument, and opened its doors to the public.

The Priory is now maintained by “Les Amis du Prieure Saint Michel de Grandmont” a non profit making association.

The Priory of St Michel de Grandmont is the only surviving monument of the order of Grandmont, a movement of monastic reform, dating from the 12th Century. This ancient Priory was restored by its private owners over the last century. The church, and cloisters are particularly well conserved, and the Priory is surrounded by a peaceful, and attractive park. The group of buildings includes a church with remarkable acoustics, a Romanesque cloister surmounted by a charming pinnacle, and a chapter house and cellar.

Located at an altitude of 450m/1476ft, the park offers an exceptional panoramic view of the area as far as the sea. It contains interesting dolmens, and other megaliths, dating back to 3000 BC. On the crest above the priory there are spectacular views over the Hérault valley, and as far as the Mediterranean on clear days. To visit the Priory, and its park, a paid visit is necessary, but many of the surrounding dolmens are accessible from the long distance footpath that passes above the Priory.

On entering the Priory and to the left is THE RECEPTION HALL(1). This is 13^th century, with an interesting rib-vaulted ceiling. The Fireplace, and windows date back to the beginning of the last century, and replace rudimentary windows, and fireplace. The original entrance is at the back of this hall, but was bricked up to allow the construction of an external staircase, which led to guest rooms for pilgrims to Santiago de Campostello. Upon leaving this hall there is a stone Gallo-Roman alter, featuring the image of Jupiter, that was found on site. Interestingly a roman road once passed through the nearby village of Soumont.

Passing through the entrance hall you arrive in THE CLOISTERS (2).  Built in Roman style, the rib-vaulted ceiling replaced a 12^th century flat wooden structure, of which there are still signs of the supporting beams in the sandstone walls. In the east gallery, you can see a measuring implement with 11 notches carved into the wall. This was the standard length of a cubit, and was probably used throughout the construction of the Priory. Workmen respected the architectural proportions when building the Priory by using this measuring “yardstick”.

The octagonal bell tower, built on a square base on the south wall, is influenced by Byzantine architecture. THE STAIRS leading from the Cloisters are an unusual feature, not normally seen in cloisters. They led to the monk’s dormitory, and had no banister. The monks walked carefully up the stairs close to the wall, as can be seen from the wear in the stone steps.

On the roof of the west wing is an Aragonese-Roman chimney shaped like a small spire.

In the north-east corner of the Cloisters, is a door leading to THE PASSAGE OF THE DEAD (4). This passage provided access, directly to the graveyard. The Monks often used this passage to pray for deceased predecessors. The two low walls inside the passage were used to prepare the dead for burial.

Returning to the Cloisters, a door on the north side of the cloisters leads to THE CHURCH (3). This was the first building to be completed at the end of the 12^th century, and consists of a single nave. The ceiling is constructed in a pointed barrel vault, with no lateral arches. The apse is covered by a domed vault rising above a triptych of three deep and perfectly identical windows. There were, originally, two entrances;

1. One which allowed the monks access directly from the cloister.

2. A lateral, north facing door (now walled up), for passers by to attend the monk’s daily mass and evensong.

In the sanctuary, four recesses carved into the wall make up the sacristy. Above two small basins, which were used for anointing during blessings, we can see a small room. This may have been used as a prayer room, or as a small infirmary leading from the monk’s dormitory on the first floor.

The large doors on the west wall, and the holes in the north wall, originate from the church’s transformation into a wine cellar in the 19^th century. At that time a gallery or walkway ran along the length of the north wall, and above the barrels used to store, and mature wine.

Next to the foot of the stairs in the cloisters is a further door leading to THE CHAPTER HALL (5) and the WINE CELLAR (6).

This was the second most important room after the Church, as it was here that the monks would gather each morning for their Chapter assemblies and to hear advice from the “corrector” who was appointed to ensure they all followed the monastic rules. The large room of today was once made up of two smaller rooms, and traces of the dividing wall can still be seen crossing the vaults.

The first and smaller room, has three fully centered arches and was used for Chapter assemblies, Cleric meetings for dispensing daily orders and public confessions.

During Chapter assemblies no one except the “corrector” was allowed to speak without asking for permission. The meeting consisted of;

• Prayers followed by a reading from the Grandmont Chapter.

• A summary of community matters, such as counting donations made to the Priory.

• Disciplining of monks who had not carried out their duties.

The second, and largest room acted as a workshop for the lay brothers, and also a wine cellar, and larder. At the back of this room is a pre cellar, which acted as an airlock, and prevented sunlight from heating the room, and spoiling the stored food. It was accessed by a door leading from the 19^th century courtyard.

Leaving the Priory by this courtyard it is possible to access the rear of the Priory, and THE CEMETRY (7). Archeological digs have led to the discovery of channels cut into the rock. These acted as channels to capture rainwater.

A graveyard has also been found behind the Apse (the rounded end of the Church) Two 5^th century Visigothic tombs (carved in the rock with shaped cavities for the heads) can be seen opposite rustic 14^th century tombs for the monks.

On leaving the Priory, and opposite the reception office is THE CHAPEL (8). Built in 1335 this chapel is dedicated to St Michel, and was intended for pilgrims, and non-religious people alike. Beautiful stained glass windows from the school of Poitiers depicts St Michael slaying the dragon as well as St Stephen the Great being stoned to death, alongside the founder of the Grandmont order, St Stephen of Murat.

VISITS

Summer
1st June to 30th September
every day at 10 h30 - 15h - 16h - 17h

Winter
1st October to 15th December
15th January to 31st May
every day at 15h

MEALS
Various rooms can be hired for marriages, baptisms, banquets and seminars
Group meals only, by appointment all year (Caterer) minimum 20 persons.
http://www.prieure-grandmont.fr/
 

DIRECTIONS
From Lodève, take the D153 (direction St Privet. this is a narrow, but attractive route, the lane leading to the Priory is indicated.