Rain in the South of France

 

In our Department 300 days of sunshine are often talked about, but what about the other 65 days of the year.

On average ten of them are heavy rain, bordering on tropical, when the wind howls and the rain falls like stair rods. A month’s rain can fall in a couple of days, and each time it happens, the locals can be heard to say “Je ne jamais vue”

The consolation is, the following morning, or the day after that, the skies will be back to blue, and all signs of the bizarre amounts of rain will have disappeared. It will only be the vignerons who continue to worry, in case the excessive amount of water will swell the grapes so much, that they burst.

When we first moved to the area in 1985 we were told that “it never rains in the midi”, but of course I realized that that could not be correct. Eventually after much questioning I was told that the rain fell, “normalement” for a week in February and a further week in October, and that it would rain non stop for five days.

For the first few years, that was exactly correct, and when it started you could cancel any outdoor activity for those five days.

Over the twenty years that we have lived here the weather has changed, and those two periods of five days have now been replaced by the same number of days but spread over a longer period of time in the Spring and Autumn giving the impression that the weather is becoming more like UK weather, but 5 degrees centigrade warmer.

Many residents of the UK dream of coming to the South of France to escape the winter weather, believing that we don’t have a winter. In fact the winters can be cold with early morning frosts. The benefit however is that during the day it will be mainly sunny with clear blue skies, and often warm enough to eat out on a sheltered terrace. Snow is rarer and in our twenty years here we have seen snow three times.

 

During the summer months it is not unknown for a day of rain, and local residents for the most part are pleased to get a respite from the burning sun. Unfortunately the tourists who have saved all year to come on their annual two week holiday are not so enthusiastic.

 

September will often see violent thunderstorms or more often dry storms and quite often there will be days when it is grey and overcast and looks certain to rain. When we first moved here, I often put off watering our vegetable garden when rain threatened, only to discover the next morning, that it had remained dry. I have wised up, and nowadays I can be seen watering the vegetables even when it looks as though it will rain imminently, but most of the time I have been right to do so.

 
Locations of Serious flooding in France

Just prior to the grape harvest, that takes place in early September, the nightmare of the wine farmer is hailstones. Hail can strip every leaf and bunch of grapes off the vines.

Most villages advertise the fact that they have a “micro climate” and so it will not be unusual to hear the residents repeat the phrase “Je ne jamais vue”. Undoubtedly for someone it will be a period that they have never seen before. The south of France is often affected by these bizarre storms that throw up a horrific amounts of rain somewhere or the other, and comes as part of the price of living in an area where for the most part the weather is semi tropical.

In our village on Sunday 26th January 1996 there was a catastrophic flood that became national headlines on the television and newspapers for a week, and warranted a visit by the then Prime Minister Lionel Jospin. It had been raining here almost every other day since September and the ground was saturated. The equivalent of a years worth of rain had fallen during those three months and then finally on that Sunday it fell like stair rods.

The only river was at the lowest point of the village and presented no danger. The normally efficient system of drainage ditches had become filled with debris over a period of time. Unbeknown at that time, the hill at the back of the village which is, for the most part, a plateau, had a rock underlay below the surface of the earth. This formed a basin that over the previous three months had reached saturation point. Suddenly it released the water that had accumulated, in the same way that the siphon flushes in the toilet, which then cascaded towards the village. Against the odds at that very moment, the rain changed to hail and quickly clogged the remainder of the ditches. Equally as quick the flood water melted the hail and the resulting wave of water left large parts of the village under a meter of water and in some parts two meters. Cars were swept down the main street and a large fuel tanker was washed into a private swimming pool. Firemen tied to railings by rope jumped into the tidal wave of water to rescue people being swept through the village still in their cars.

It was the time of the annual winter fete, and a visiting fair was parked on the show ground at the lower level of the village. There a young teenager of 14 who had been sheltering in a caravan was swept away, and two other children were carried away from the roof of the car, where they had climbed for safety.

As quick as the flood water arrived it disappeared, and the task of rebuilding the village started. Previously projected anti-flood measures were quickly constructed. A new school and fire station were built on the outskirts of the village where there are no foreseen dangers.

Throughout the south of France large ditches can be seen alongside roads and 'criss crossing' the vinyards, and it is not until these sudden storms arise that people can see their value. Ditches two meters across and two meters deep remain empty for many years and then suddenly they becoming raging torrents for two or three hours and then remain empty until the next deluge that once again brings the comment “Je ne jamais vue

 

It is said that the British are obsessed with the weather but the French, are, in many ways more so. For when it rains here you must believe that the same amount of rain that falls in the UK during a year is falling during those 10 days of rain.

But I would ask you not to feel too sorry for us, for on Christmas Day, you can be sure that we will probably be walking on the beach at Valras, and then return home to eat our midday meal on the terrace under clear blue skies and sunshine.

 

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Vaison la Romaine  22nd Septembre 1992